Відео

Thank you! I usually use a 60 degree V-Bit. As fun as the acrylic signs are to make, I'm spending all my time combining laser engraving with the wood projects I make in my shop. And as much as l like making videos, I haven't done a video in several years. There are so many good CNC videos out there, like Mark Lindsay CNC. I leave the videos to the good guys and spend my time making stuff. Here's a link to Mark Lindsay: ua-cam.com/video/fhFC1r_PtL0/v-deo.htmlsi=oCrRVF5sf8ax8x4u

Speeds and feeds vary substantially between machines and materials. Your experience is the best guide.

It's been a long tiime so I'm sure the exact sources have changed, but the sockets and the power supply should both be readily available on both Amazon and eBay. The power supply is 120 volt input (wall plug) and 12v output (sockets). The sockets just need to match whichever bulbs you are going to use. I used regular bulbs but if I were going to do it now I'd be using LED lights, I'm sure. It was a fun project. My son still has the grill hanging on the fireplace in the living room and my daughter-ini-law still wishes he didn't.

Sorry, I did not make a set of plans of materials list. It wasn't difficult to lay out in VCarve Pro. Thanks for asking!

Thanks for the quick reply. I am starting to us vcarve pro. Would you mind emailing me your vcarve file?

Thanks for your compliment! It's been so many years since I made any of these signs I wouldn't even know where to find the file. Sorry!

In setting up the pocket to mill away the excess wood, I measure the depth from the top male inlay down to the surface. I subtract 0.05 from that number and that's the depth of cut for the pocket to mill away the excess. Actually, I often use the planer to remove most of the excess wood, leaving only about 1/4 inch. I don't like to go too close because sometimes it cracks off and damages the inlay. Then I mil off that last 1/4 inch. I create a pocket slightly larger than the wood I'm milling off and set the depth to leave about 1/16 inch. I take off that last 1/16 inch with the drum sander. It doesn't come off quite evenly. When I see that parts of the inlay still have a glue halo, I stop with the drum sander and finish with the hand held Random Orbit (RO) sander. Hope this helps.

If you follow along step by step you will be able to figure it out, which will be far more benefit to you. The biggest problem will be that my version of Aspire will be different than your version of Aspire, so you would be unable to open the file I sent you. You can do this!

@@DaveVanAntwerp would you have your own simple program positive and negative part to analyze? I just want to analyze it because I'll be tired of it for months

Royalty free clipart online.

Lots of good ways to build it. Another good way is to install a jack into the side of the unit and plug the power supply into the jack instead of wires and heat shrink tape. Old woodworkers can learn a lot from electronics techs!

To eliminate the small ridge around the edges when the tool makes two passes. Makes for a smoother glue joint.

@@DaveVanAntwerp what I mean was, in Vcarve, where are you setting the pass depth?

When you set up your toolpath you should be able to set the depth of pass for the bit. In my tool library the depth of pass for end mills is set by default to 1/2 of the bit diameter. So when I set up the toolpath, I change the depth of pass to 0.2 to prevent a horizontal line in the middle of the cut. I use Vectric VCarve Pro which has an "Edit" button for each tool when setting up the toolpath. You may need to change the depth differently.

I'm using Vectric VCarve Pro. But most any CNC software can accomplish it. Just set up an engraving toolpath using a diamond drag bit.

Actually the acrylic is sitting on a ledge above the LED strip. I don't know if there's a "normal" way to do it. I designed it myself and it seemed to work.

@@DaveVanAntwerp yeah I'm not sure either. Maybe I'll make one both ways to see for myself. No ledge would definitely be easier.

I have done signs using RGB LED strips with a control that changes colors, but only one color at a time. In order to do a sign with multiple colors at the same time, each color needs its own sheet of acrylic and its own LED strip. I have seen them but have not made them myself. Could be cool.

The die is cold steel. It will retain its shape when the hammer hits. The workpiece is hot steel. It will conform to the shape of the die when the hammer hits. The workpiece needs to be the correct volume of steel to fit the die when fully shaped, but it doesn't require special skills. Practice will yield a better result, like anything.

The sign is engraved on the back side with the image mirrored.

@@DaveVanAntwerp thank you.

Good observation, Daniel. Two quick notes: First, when i use dogs, I use two and place a piece of lumber across them to clamp against so the force is parallel. But second, I have stopped using the Hovarter vise altogether. In order to work correctly, it needs to be perfectly aligned. Mine does not stay in alignment so it doesn't work for the intended purpose. It jumps a tooth on the rack and clutch system so one side is not as tight as the other. It doesn't hold the work piece from slipping. And the jaw cannot be pulled out. Several times I've taken the vise apart, aligned it again, and put it back together. It works fairly well for a couple weeks and then goes out of alignment. I tried to give the vise away free to the Kalamazoo Maker Space but they declined. They purchased a Hovarter vise too but theirs doesn't work any better than mine and they don't want another one. At this point my Hovarter vise is just a shop ornament. I'll probably remove it and replace it with a Veritas twin screw vise.

@@DaveVanAntwerp What did Hovarter say about the problem, I bought one a last year and am now concerned about installing it on my cnc

Thanks! There are some darn good UA-cam videos. I learn a lot. And there are some others....

If you don't have anything nice to say, why say anything at all? Sounds like your looking for die machining videos, which was in no way described to be what you had here before watching.... Learn to use a search engine and have a stay at a southern mammies house so you'll learn better manners

Forge your own dies, you just need to forge the plug first! I do it with high carbon steel forged to rough shape, use grinders, files and a Dremel to get the form I want then harden to shape a mild steel die. When the die is done I just make another, heat the steel, use the plug to shape the die, a bit of clean up and back in business! Hardened dies would be better but I rarely destroy mild steel dies so I don’t bother with the extra effort. I always have the plug to make another in a few hours.